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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning venues. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has left the owners completely surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” states a proprietor, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small shop earning such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.